![]() So what you are in a sense building is a wall made of cement.īuilding a retaining wall otherwise with CB is a disaster waiting to happen. ![]() Add rain and strike three.įor a roughly 3 foot high wall chances are you will need a PERMIT.which will tell you what size block, how deep and how wide your footing has to be, how much re bar, and that you have to fill all the block cells with concrete. The horizontal pressure and change in coefficient of friction in the soil is a double strike. Last thing you want is for water or moisture to build up behind a wall like that. One of the main advantages of using concrete landscape wall units is they are typically mortar free and self weeping. I suggest you focus your research in that direction. There are special interlocking Concrete landscape units designed for your application. Retaining walls are notorious for failure, even knee height ones. ![]() Once the mortar joints have become “thumbprint” hard, use a jointing tool to smooth the fresh joints and remove any excess mortar.Bad idea, even using a rule of thumb 1:4 width to height ratio for a parapet you exceed anything reasonable going that narrow. ![]() Using a mason’s line as a guide for the remaining block, continue building the wall until it is complete. To set the next course of block, apply a one-inch thick mortar bed along top of the first course.Īt the end of the wall, set an “8x8x8” half block into the mortar bed with the smooth side facing out. Repeat steps 6 and 7, adjusting the blocks to be flush and level continue this process until the first course is completed. Using the same process, set the opposite corner block. The mortar should be workable but firm enough to support the weight of the block.īutter the inside end of the first block and then press the block into the mortar bed to create a 3/8 inch mortar joint. Furrow the mortar bed using the tip of the trowel to create a “v” to help distribute the mortar evenly. The proper consistency is achieved when the wet mortar will “hang” on a trowelĭampen the footing surface with water and place a one-inch bed of mortar on the footing. TIP: when preparing to place a trowel full of mortar, gently “snap” the trowel downward to removeĪny excess mortar. Snap a chalk line on each side of the block wall as a reference line. Lay out the block, making sure to leave a 3/8 inch gap between the blocks to allow for the vertical mortar joints (i.e., a typical 8x8x16 block is actually 15-5/8 inches long and 7-5/8 inches high to accommodate the mortar joint). Rebar should be placed in every other masonry core to provide structural support.įor masonry cores over 4 inches wide, QUIKRETE Core Fill Grout – Coarse should be poured around the rebar for masonry cores under 4 inches wide, QUIKRETE Core Fill Grout-Fine should be used. NOTE: it is important to check local building codes for construction requirements in your area.įor load-bearing walls, tie rods should be set a minimum of 6 inches into the concrete footing before it is set. Footings should be a minimum of twice the width of the concrete block (i.e., a typical 8x8x16 block would require a 16-inch wide footing) and extend below the frost line. When working with cement-based products, always wear eye protection and waterproof gloves.Įnsure a solid footing.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |